January 6th, 2015
As you may already know I love casual, unstructured, “soft” tailoring. In my opinion it’s the ideal way for a modern gentleman to dress.
I designed this jacket with the NYC-based team behind online custom clothier Black Lapel (as seen in our Online Custom Suit Review) for two reasons. First, I wanted to test their ability to create a fully unstructured made-to-measure jacket (which they just about nailed) and second, I’ve been researching and sampling different manufacturing techniques for my own collection – which will be available later this year. More on all that later.
This particular jacket, a sort of experiment for Black Lapel, has no shoulder padding, no sleeve heads, and no chest canvas whatsoever. The result is a “shell” of a jacket, made from a soft wool flannel fabric.
In my opinion, this makes for a jacket that strikes the perfect balance between dress and casual. It’s still a sharply cut sportcoat, but it looks and feels less rigid and more causal than a traditional tailored jacket.
The advantages of an unstructured jacket:
- it’s a versatile piece that can truly be dressed-up or dressed-down
- it’s lightweight on the body and very breathable
- it’s flexible, making it more comfortable than a canvassed jacket
- it’s easily packable. I rolled this one below to show that it’s really just one piece of cloth.