1 Piece/3 Ways: Graphite Nailhead

February 1st, 2016

Today we turn our attention to another staple from in our inaugural collection.

The graphite nailhead is a nine ounce “4-Season” fabric (although it leans slightly to the lighter side) that was designed for our clients looking to get the most bang for their buck.

At $995 for a two-piece suit custom-made in America (including our entire bespoke fitting process + your complimentary fit-assessment garments + the cost of any final alterations), I challenge you to find a better value (quality of garment + service) anywhere in the menswear market…

Here’s how it can expand your wardrobe, long-term.

All Business


I’m proud to say that every item in this look was crafted right here in America.

With all the hoop-la surrounding the Italian (and faux-Italian) style of tailoring, it seems we’ve all but forgotten the American contributions to menswear. American tailoring used to have respect around the world – when Ivy League students were wearing tweed blazers to class and Ralph Lauren was still making garments in this country. Famously, a group of Japanese photographers visited Ivy League campuses back in the day and published a street style book that became a collector’s item.

Timeless garments like a grey nailhead suit with natural shoulders were (and are) proudly American – both in their style, and their craftsmanship. In fact, our manufacturing partner Southwick Clothing was one of the first large-scale tailoring operations to offer “soft shouldered” garments (cut for comfort and range of motion) which led, in part, to the aesthetic that was mimicked around the world for decades. More on that soon.


Graphite Nailhead Suit

Textured White Broadcloth Shirt

Business Casual


If you’ve been following AOS, you probably know that I love to mix-and-match suit separates. It’s my favorite way for a gentleman to dress, and the reason why I always commission all three pieces. With two 3-piece suits (tastefully designed) and a few versatile oxford shirts, you have the beginnings of a long-term wardrobe with plenty of outfit combinations.

Here, for example, I’m wearing the waistcoat + trouser from the graphite nailhead, with the jacket form the Cherrywood flannel.

Of yea, and everything in this look was also made in America. Keep tailoring jobs here!


Wool Flannel Jacket in Cherrywood

Graphite Nailhead Vest

Dinner & Drinks


A tailored suit is game for much more than just the office (I don’t even have an office).

Paired with a collarless shirt and a smooth overcoat (like our blackwatch mac) it’s a super-sharp look for evening events. If you’re looking to go a little more casual, consider a single-breasted version and swap-out the trousers for a slim pair of black waxed jeans. Keep everything else the same – good menswear is designed to be re-purposed.


Blackwatch Lambswool Coat

Graphite Nailhead Suit

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier