Old School Peacoat, New School Fabrics

January 3rd, 2012

You can’t go wrong with a classic peacoat.

They come in all shapes, sizes, fabrics and price points. If the color is subtle and neutral, and the fit is on-point, it doesn’t get much better for an everyday coat.

Here I styled some of the peacoats from my collection, to give you some everyday wardrobe ideas.

1. The OG Naval Issue

I figured we’d start with the original.

Some of the best peacoats were commissioned by the military and issued to the naval academy. They were made from tough and rugged navy blue wool and were built to keep their shape through the toughest conditions.

The best part is, you can usually find a reasonably priced selection at just about any decent vintage store.

Bonus Tip: Whenever buying army or navy gear (and vintage most of the time) keep in mind that you may have to size down to get the fit you are looking for.

Bonus Tip II: Yes, you can wear it over a suit. As long as the coat is longer than the jacket, and it fits comfortably over the shoulders and midsection, it’s fair game.


Chestnut Corduroy Suit

  • Fair Isle wool socks by Polo Ralph Lauren ·
  • Navy peacoat Vintage naval issue ·
  • Olive/brown tie Vintage from my late grandfather ·
  • Purple shirt with grey windowpane ·
  • Brown leather wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco
  • · Tan corduroy suit

2. Brushed Khaki Moleskin

Moleskin is tough, rugged and laid-back. A perfect jacket for a low key date, or a casual night out with friends.

Those wicked wingtips boots by Allen Edmonds again, as featured here.

  • Brown wool/linen cardigan by Club Monaco ·
  • Tortoise shades by Matsuda Eyewear ·
  • Leather wingtip boots by Allen Edmonds ·
  • Blue chambray shirt by Rag&Bone ·
  • Tan moleskin peacoat by Filippa K ·
  • “New Standard” Raw denim jeans by APC

3. Money Green Leather

I’m typically not an impulse shopper, but when I saw this money green leather peacoat at the Hugo Boss outlet in my hometown, I had to scoop it.

It’s a classic peacoat but because of the fabric selection I’ve never seen one similar. It’s also a heavy leather with full wool lining which gives it parka-like warmth.

A dark green is also fairly neutral, it works with many other colors – blues, browns, beiges, burgundys, etc.

Bonus Tip: Don’t overthink the roll of your pant hem – it looks better natural and slightly unkept, especially with jeans.

  • Green leather peacoat by Hugo Boss Selection ·
  • Brown poplin shirt ·
  • Fair Isle wool socks by Polo Ralph Lauren ·
  • Oatmeal hand-knit scarf by Yokoo Scarves ·
  • Washed jeans by Ralph Lauren Denim & Supply ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Burgundy tassel loafers by Johnston & Murphy ·
  • Brown alligator belt and silver buckle by Ralph Lauren Purple Label ·
  • Brown alligator watch band by Montblanc

4. Belted Plaid Fleece

Of course, not every peacoat is for everyday use. Sometimes they can serve as statement outerwear – a great refresher from the routine of navy, grey, brown and black outerwear.

Because the shape is timeless, it’s easier to incorporate details like a bolder plaid fabric, patch pockets and a belted waist.

  • Tan suede gloves by Uniqlo ·
  • Tan suede wingtips by Bass ·
  • Plaid belted peacoat by Ralph Lauren Polo ·
  • Indigo denim jeans by JBrand

5. Down-Filled Flannel

Down coats aren’t all big and bulky anymore. This slim-fit, less-puffy down peacoat by Hugo Boss is cut from wool flannel suiting and is the perfect balance between dressy and casual. Available at select Nordstrom locations and online here.

Bonus Tip: An authentic fur scarf has a little edge to it, and makes everything else look a little more refined and elegant. More on that soon.

Bonus Tip II: UGG may or may not have earned a bad rap for those boots that we hate seeing girls wearing. However, these oiled and waterproofed leather alpine boots with Vibrim soles are tough. And their signature full-sheeepskin lining makes them the most comfortable boots in my collection, hands down.

  • Grey flannel down peacoat by Hugo Boss ·
  • Beaver fur scarf handmade myself out of my late grandmother’s old fur coat ·
  • Brown leather alpine boots by UGG ·
  • Indigo denim jeans by JBrand ·
  • Brown woven leather gloves by Hilts and Willard

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier


Photography by Alex Crawford and Wes Dimagiba.