Summer Weight Tailoring feat. Martel Francois

June 30th, 2014

New York City based stylist Martel Francois (of Korey Francois) knows a thing or two about staying sharply tailored, no matter the season. Hint: it’s all in the weight of the fabrics.

Here he highlights three go-to fabric options to stay tailored through the summer heat.

1. Linen

Linen is a sartorial man’s go-to summer cloth. Sometimes pure and wrinkly, sometimes blended and a little more smooth. We’ve already discussed the pros & cons of linen garments here.

And yes, you can wear linen on linen, as shown here with Martel’s coral jacket and micro-patterned trousers.

2. High-Twist Wool


Not all wools are created equal. Some are designed for warmth (like flannels and tweeds) and some are designed to stay cool and breezy.

“High Twist” wools begin in a lighter place, with sheep bred in warm climates like Australia. The wool is then spun extra finely and fabricated using a looser weave to permit the free flow of air through the fabric. A good tropical high-twist can feel as light as linen.

Of course, as with any Spring/Summer jacket, we recommend you forgo any type of lining (it’s the lining that traps heat and makes you sweat).

3. Hopsack


Technically a hopsack can be made of any fabric. “Hopsack” simply refers to the loosely woven nature of the fabric; it looks like a very tiny basket-weave up close and wind flows right through it.

This is the same cloth that I used for my “MAB x Dan Trepanier” collection a few years ago – for those of you who scooped the grey hopsack. It’s still one of my favorite suits.

Martel did it in a very trim cut double-breasted, which looks tres chic with white denim and navy suede chukka boots.


Stay tailored gentlemen, just get your fabrics right so you’re not a hot mess. Thanks for reading, and special thanks to Martel for participating!

Yours in style,

Articles of Style


Photography by Westley Dimagiba.