A Sartorial Winter feat. Angel Ramos

February 17th, 2014

After the success of Summertime Tailoring feat. Angel Ramos, we had to bring him back for a winter story. And let’s face it, Angel is one of the flyest guys in todays’s menswear game.

2013 was a big year for Angel and his brand ANGEL | BESPOKE, and 2014 is shaping up to be even bigger.

“I’m thankful to say it was a blessed 2013. It was my first year running ANGEL | BESPOKE full-time. I’m very thankful for all of the great relationships I was able to build with clients, vendors and fellow menswear enthusiasts from all over the world.

As we roll into 2014 I’m excited about so many new things we’re working on. New manufacturing: hand-made in Italy & New York. New website: finally launching in early Spring…  I’m also working on a small collection of summer tassel loafers in conjunction with Pitti Uomo – it’ll be awesome!

And… my wife Faith and I will be moving back to NYC to open our first private showroom this summer. It’s a very exciting time as we move back to not only my hometown, but one of the world’s premier fashion capitals. Also, more than 75% of my clientele is either based in NYC or travels to the city regularly [which includes a range of sartorial gentlemen from bigtime corporate CEOs, to NFL & NBA players, to Fashion Icons from around the world].”

We caught up with Angel at New York Fashion Week to talk business and give you a taste of some of his highly sought-after winter tailoring.

Here’s three of his NYFW looks.

1. Crushing Velvet

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“I call this my Opus jacket! Haha. It’s a beautiful full-bodied crushed velvet. This fabric is actually called “Bordeaux” by Ariston Napoli. The fit and feel of this jacket is outstanding – very warm and plush.

I paired it with these flannel glenplaid trousers (part of a suit) that have the wine colored accent stripe. With the oxblood shoes, the deep rep hues tie it all together and compliment the grey tones.”

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When you find the perfect hat, wear it with everything.

“Attending Pitti Uomo the last three years has been great for my career as a luxury clothier; networking and growing an international following. I’ve made some amazing friends across the pond, which I’ve come to call my fratellos. From guys who work with established menswear houses like Kiton, d’Venza and Suit Supply to talented artisans such as tie makers from Stockholm.

I also got to know Francesco Barbera Formangiani who is the grandson of the great Luciano Barbera and the future heir of the 30+ year old luxury brand. He was wearing this vintage LB hat on the first day of the show and I was enamored by it. It was the perfect hat. The next day I was speechless when he gave it to me, because he knew how much I loved it. He also included the amazing backstory behind this particular hat involving the legendary Luciano Barbera himself… Needless to say, it means a lot me now.”

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“Shoes are custom made by Scarpe Dibianco. I love wearing this brand not only because the owner Bill White is a great and close friend but the quality and make of shoe is amazing.”

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SHOP THIS LOOK


Great Depths Glenplaid Trouser

  • Hat Vintage Luciano Barbera ·
  • Velvet jacket by Angel Bespoke ·
  • White Italian Collar Shirt ·
  • Flannel tie by Angel Bespoke ·
  • Vintage pocket square ·
  • Pinky Ring from the Progetto Fede “Instanbul Collection” ·
  • Oxblood wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco for Angel Bespoke
  • · Flannel glenplaid trousers by Angel Bespoke

2. Scarf & Stripes

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Angel is almost always wearing bespoke, but not always in a stuffy or corporate way. He has a knack for blending dressy with casual, such as his spread collar shirt and power-stripe flannel suit trousers with a denim jacket and chukka boots.

“It’s funny I get so many compliments on this scarf…I purchased it about six years ago on an NYC street corner because I felt I was getting cold and sick. It was $6. It’s “pashmina”, or at least that’s what is says on the tag. It’s definitely cheap, but as Dan has written several times, it’s all about styling and confidence. People typically assume this scarf is baby cashmere imported from the hills of Umbria, or something like that. Haha.”

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I love the mix of sharp bespoke (shirt, tie, trousers) with worn-in vintage (hat, jacket, scarf) in this look.

On another note, Angel has transition lenses in his chunky tortoise frames. Inside they are clear eyeglasses, but step outside into the sun and they quickly fade into shades. I’ve always loved transitions and can’t figure out why more guys don’t take advantage of them…

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Also, how about the subtle nod to the old-school with the paisley tie, while subtly tying in the orange color accent. That’s pro stuff.

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SHOP THIS LOOK


Navy Chalkstripe Flannel Suit

  • Hat Vintage Luciano Barbera ·
  • Shades by Retro SuperFuture ·
  • Scarf from NYC Street Vendor ·
  • Denim jacket by Levi’s (Vintage) ·
  • Shirt by Angel Bespoke ·
  • Paisley Tie by Angel Bespoke ·
  • Pinky Ring from the Progetto Fede “Instanbul Collection” ·
  • Chukka boots by Angel Bespoke
  • · Navy Flannel Chalkstripe Suit

3. Bespoke Overcoat

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“I named this coat the Dumbo Militario for its vintage military inspiration and the huge lapels that look like floppy elephant ears.

Prior to traveling to Florence this past January, I wanted to make a coat that reckoned back to an earlier time in fashion & history. If you know me, then you know I’m obsessed with the fashion of the prohibition period and the clothing that was designed for military purposes (much of which we still wear today). I found an old war picture of a soldier wearing an incredible overcoat and I knew immediately that I had to create an updated sartorial version… It’s been a great hit already. After having my photo taken wearing it at Pitti Uomo, I’ve now re-created it for several of my clients.”

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Even your casual wear can be custom-made. Angel is one of the few guys I’ve met that offers custom knitwear – like this cashmere turtleneck sized perfectly for his frame.

Fun story about the popped-collar-under-turtleneck trend. It was the Duke of Windsor who started it (along with several other trends). As a avid golfer and fan of the turtleneck, he would get cold on the links and throw one on. The country clubs at that time, however, had a strict “collared shirt necessary” rule. So he would pop the collar under the turtleneck so that just the points of the collar would peek-out… If anyone said anything, it was “Hey, I got a collar right here”.

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The back of this coat has some incredible details too, like an expandable center seam, pleated/belted waist, and adjustable vent with working buttons.

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Angel works with a wide range of clients from corporate giants, to giant athletes. He not only keeps them sharp and tailored, he also helps teach them about building a proper wardrobe and crafting an image that is confident and tasteful. The only thing his clients have in common is their passion for quality menswear and their discerning eye for the subtleties of personal style.

I’m particularly excited for some of the features we have coming up with Angel’s big-name athlete clientele. He’s living proof that the right tailor/stylist combo can have a ball player looking like a confident, established professional – rather than the fashion victims who’ve become the laughing stocks of NBA press conferences.

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  • Hat Vintage Luciano Barbera ·
  • Shades by Retro SuperFuture ·
  • Dumbo Militario Overcoat by Angel Bespoke ·
  • Cashmere turtleneck by Angel Bespoke ·
  • Denim shirt by Angel Bespoke ·
  • Jeans by All Saints ·
  • Chukka boots by Angel Bespoke

 

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Articles of Style

 

Photography by Alex Crawford