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Five Ways to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit

September 29th, 2012

The most style-forward suit right now is double-breasted, but it can be a little tricky to pull-off.

Here’s some tips on how to get the most out of it.

1. Monday Boardroom

Nothing conveys power and authority in the boardroom like a double breasted suit. It means business.

With that said, if you’re a first year analyst it’s probably not the best choice. Like bold pinstripes or flashy cufflinks, a DB suit is a right of passage that must be earned in corporate America.

The easiest DB to fit into your work week is solid navy blue. It’s the least flashy and most business appropriate color for a suit. It’s also super versatile and very flattering on just about any skin tone.

As always, fit is essential. The jacket needs to be slim through the body to avoid a wide looking frame. When buttoned (as it should be unless you’re sitting down) it should skim your sides, providing a tapered shape from the chest and shoulders to the midsection.

Avoid short or cropped jackets. A longer DB jacket looks more regal and avoids the boxy silhouette.

There are mutliple button stances for DB suits. I prefer the 6×2 (6 buttons x 2 that fasten). For smaller guys, a 4×2 or even 2×1 can be more flattering as it won’t suffocate the physique.

An easy way to ad a subtle flair to your suit: change the buttons. Navy suits typically come with black or dark brown horn buttons, I swapped for light tortoise shell to make this suit slightly more note-worthy.

A bossy suit calls for bossy shirts and shoes.

Like this cut-away banker shirt and Boardwalk Empire inspired spectators.

SHOP THIS LOOK


Light Navy Essential Suit

  • Navy double breasted suit jacket ·
  • Brown striped cutaway banker shirt ·
  • Brown micro-houndstooth wool tie by JCrew ·
  • White cotton pocket square ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Nato Striped grosgrain watch strap by Corvus ·
  • Brown leather briefcase by Frank Clegg x Dan Trepanier ·
  • Two-tone leather spectator wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco
  • · Navy Wool Suit

2. Wednesday Seperates

Don’t forget with a navy suit you have a perfect pair of versatility trousers.

Pair them with a patterned blazer and nobody at the office will notice you’re wearing the same pants.

Nothing says “I’m a man” like a tailored suit and a beard. It’s all about that high/low, dressy/casual contrast.

My man Casey (as featured here) was one of my influences for growing out the facial hair, and I’m loving it. I find that I can wear things that are a little more polished without looking too clean or feminine.

Use accessories with a mix of colors, patterns and textures to add visual interest to your look.

The shoes make the man, especially if the shoes were made by a man.

SHOP THIS LOOK


Light Navy Essential Suit



Sky Blue Broadcloth Shirt

  • Tortoise and silver sunglasses by Matsuda ·
  • Brown/Navy mini-check blazer ·
  • Brown Polka-Dot Tie ·
  • 1″ tie bar from TheTieBar ·
  • Brown wool flannel pocket square by Armstrong & Wilson ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Nato Striped grosgrain watch strap by Corvus ·
  • Medium brown loafers by Scarpe di Bianco
  • · Sky Blue Slim-Fit Shirt by Brooks Brothers
  • · Navy Wool Suit

3. Thursday Split-Up

If you can wear the pants separately, you can do the same with the jacket. After all, it’s essentially a blue blazer.

Grey flannel trousers are a great match, they add a little Fall/Winter weight to the look.

Leave a few versatile ties at your office, commuting with an open shirt will keep you much cooler and save the back collar of your shirts.

In full disclosure, this is my girlfriend’s bike. Since I left mine on the West side I’ve been using hers – and it’s awesome. An upright cruiser is much easier to ride wearing tailored clothing, no to mention I don’t have to swing my leg over the high frame.

A striped sock doesn’t have to scream in your face. Use the colors in your outfit for a subtle and tasteful touch.

  • Gold Plated hand-engraved shades by Matsuda ·
  • Navy double breasted suit jacket ·
  • Navy/Brown mini plaid shirt ·
  • White cotton pocket square ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Nato Striped grosgrain watch strap by Corvus ·
  • Hollywood Flannel Trousers by Articles of Style ·
  • Grey/Navy striped socks by Paul Smith ·
  • Brown leather wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco

4. Casual Friday

When Friday comes around, things usually get a little more casual around the office. It’s a great day to trade the suit jacket for a sweater over your shirt/tie combo.

I love this hat. The wide brim is soft and malleable, which allows me to shape it in different ways for different “effects”.

For example, it’s the same hat as featured here – it just looks more “grandma” when I ruffle the brim.

The hat and beard is a little country, which is perfect, because so am I.

SHOP THIS LOOK


Light Navy Essential Suit



Brown Gingham Shirt

  • Brown felt hat by Borsalino ·
  • Cashmere pullover sweater by Roberto Collina ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Nato Striped grosgrain watch strap by Corvus ·
  • Brown alligator belt and silver buckle by Ralph Lauren Purple Label ·
  • Brown leather tote by Frank Clegg x Dan Trepanier ·
  • Oxblood chelsea boots by Scarpe di Bianco
  • · Brown Gingham Shirt
  • · Navy Wool Suit

5. Saturday Evening Blues

The jacket can be worn on the weekend as well. It’s one of my go-tos for a Saturday evening.

The outfit is actully very simple and casual: cotton crewneck, jeans, chukka boots. The addition of the tailored jacket takes it to another level and makes it fancy restaurant or nightclub worthy.

Everybody looks good in navy, don’t be afraid to layer it together.

Sometimes leaving out the “pop of color” is more mature and confident.

  • Black/Grey shades by Matsuda Eyewear ·
  • Navy double breasted suit jacket ·
  • Navy Organic Cotton Crewneck by Nudie Jeans via Mr. Porter ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Navy grosgrain watch strap from eBay ·
  • Indigo denim jeans by JBrand ·
  • Navy suede chukka boots by Church’s

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier

 

Photography by Alex Crawford.